Bagh print
Bagh prints of Madhya Pradesh | |
---|---|
Geographical indication | |
Type | Printed fabrics |
Area | Village Bagh |
Country | India |
Registered | Product registered in 2008 and logo registered in 2015 |
Material | Cotton, silk, tussar |
Bagh print is a traditional
History
The origins of the Bagh print are uncertain, but it is believed that the practice is over 1,000 years old, with the techniques having been handed down through family practice from generation to generation. It is possible that the craft traveled with settlers from
The initial reasons for the migration is unclear, but the area's proximity to the Bagh river, which provided the water necessary for washing of fabric and processing of vegetable dyes, could be the primary reason for settling in Bagh. In addition, the chemical composition of the water from the Bagh river enhances the texture of the vegetable, natural, and black dyes, giving them a luminous quality that distinguishes Bagh prints from other prints in Madhya Pradesh and Rajasthan regions.[1]
In the 1960s, many craftsmen abandoned the traditional process of Bagh prints in favour of using synthetic fabrics. However, a number of artisans, including Ismail Sulemanji Khatri, continued to practice and innovate within the traditional framework of the craft and brought Bagh prints to international prominence.
In 2011, a Bagh print design was adopted in a tableau theme of the Madhya Pradesh state at the
Process
The process of creating Bagh prints includes pre printing (the washing and pre-dying of the fabric), printing (application of the design) and post printing (fixing the dyes and applying a fabric finish).[1][5]
Pre-printing
Pre-printing starts with Khara Karna, the initial washing of the fabric for printing. Cotton is the commonly used fabric; however, other fabrics include the Maheshwari suit material,
Next, the fabric is soaked in a water solution of rock salt, mengni (goat dung), and castor oil, pressed, rinsed and dried three times, which is known as Mengni Karna. Then, the cloth is pre-dyed with Harara to provide an off-white base color, which also adds a richness to the black and red dyes that will be applied later.[1][6][7][8]
Printing
Bagh prints are made by hand applying natural and vegetable based dyes using carved wood relief blocks. Red and black dyes are most common, but indigo, mustard, and khaki dyes are also used. New blocks for printing are hand carved from
Dyes
Dyes for printing are derived from plant sources (plants, fruits, and flowers), and minerals. To make the dyes, pigments like
Printing blocks
The blocks, known as bilals and bibas are made of intricate and deeply carved teak or sheesham (
Printing process
In order to apply the correct amount of dye to the printing block, a wooden reservoir, called a palea, is filled with dye. A bamboo mesh (kartali) wrapped in wool is set up to float in the reservoir, soaking up the dye and transferring the color when the printing block is rested on top. The cloth to be printed is laid over a red sandstone table, called a farsi, which is padded with extra cloth or old clothes to ensure smooth printing. The printing blocks are applied by hand, with an expert craftsman producing five yards of fabric in two to three hours, depending on the complexity of the design. Once the design is fully printed, the cloth rests for 8 to 14 days to allow the dye to fully absorb into the fabric.[1][6]
Post-printing
Once the fabric has rested, it is brought to the river and rigorously washed for 20 minutes and beaten against river stones to remove excess dye. This process, known as the Bichalna, requires both strength and care, as any smudges or stains that occur from improper washing are permanent. The fabric is then fixed and finished in the Bhatti process, where the fabric is boiled in a mixture of water, Alizarin, and Dhavda flowers. The fabric is constantly shifted and turned with long sticks as the temperature of solution is slowly increased, which aids in the proper development of the colors. The whole process takes from four to six hours. Finally, the fabric is bleached and washed three more times before the fabric is complete.[1][6]
Prominent master craftspersons
Quality control
The
New experiments
Initially, Mohammed Yusuf Khatri, Mohammed Bilal Khatri, Mohammed Kazeem Khatri and their family made traditional dresses to meet the needs of various caste groups residing in the tribal region of Bagh. People of different castes and families had different dresses with specific identification tags of the tribal Bhil and Bhilala community. Some of the Kahtris developed designs to meet contemporary urban taste in the later part of 1980s; these designs covered sarees, shalwar kameez, covers for cushion and tables, block printed silk saree, tusser silk, silk stoll, scarf and so forth. Some the family members created innovative wooden blocks and colours which were accepted in the national and international market due to their long life. These included craft such as block printing on bamboo chik or mats, leather, jute, and other materials besides cloth.[1][7]
One such practice he[who?] pursued was the old technique of reusing the traditional blocks of 200 to 300 years old, which were patterns or designs of paintings in the 1,500 year old cave paintings in the region.[1][7]
Some of the block designs covered Nariyal Zaal and Ghevar Zaal based on the
Location
The Bagh village, where this handicraft is practiced, lies within the geographical coordinates of 22°22′00″N 74°40′00″E / 22.36667°N 74.66667°E at an elevation of 240 metres (790 ft). The Bagh River, which flows near the village, is a major factor in the adoption of the art form. The Narmada River, about 30 kilometres (19 mi) from Bagh, being a perennial source, is an important source for this art work, particularly during the season when the Bagh River goes dry.[1]
Bagh prints are listed as
References
- ^ a b c d e f g h i j k l m n o p q r s t "Geographical Indications Journal No.75" (PDF). Government Of India. 26 November 2015. Archived from the original (PDF) on 4 February 2016. Retrieved 4 February 2016.
- ^ a b "Hand Block Printing of Bagh, Madhya Pradesh". Craft and Artisans. Archived from the original on 14 April 2021. Retrieved 4 February 2016.
- ^ "A brief studies on block printing process in India". ResearchGate. Retrieved 2019-03-12.
- ^ "MP tableau to showcase 'Bagh' prints on Republic Day parade". Zeenews. 21 January 2011. Retrieved 4 February 2016.
- ^ "Bagh Block Printing" (PDF). Craft Mark. Retrieved March 11, 2019.
- ^ a b c d e f "Hand Block Printing of Bagh, Madhya Pradesh – Asia InCH – Encyclopedia of Intangible Cultural Heritage". Retrieved 2019-03-12.
- ^ a b c d e Chari, Pushpa (21 October 2011). "The Bagh story..." The Hindu. Retrieved 4 February 2016.
- ^ a b "The Story Of Bagh Print". By The Window. 2017-02-26. Retrieved 2019-03-12.
- ^ Alaniz, Leonore (July 4, 2016). "Bagh Printing- Madhya Pradesh. process & history | Gaatha . गाथा ~ handicrafts". Retrieved 2019-03-12.
- ^ "The man behind the craft". The Hindu. 17 February 2003. Archived from the original on 7 May 2003. Retrieved 4 February 2016.
- ^ "Bagh Prints: A Lasting Imprint". Outlook Traveller. Retrieved 2019-03-12.
- ^ "Bagh prints of Madhya Pradesh hog limelight in Argentina too | ummid.com". www.ummid.com. Retrieved 2021-04-06.
- ^ "The man behind the craft". The Hindu. 2003-02-17. Archived from the original on 2003-05-07.
- ^ "Bagh artist Abdul Khatri bags UNESCO 2018 award in Qatar | Bhopal News - Times of India". The Times of India. 23 January 2019.
- ^ "Bagh artisan Abdul Kadar Khatri bags UNESCO, world craft council award".
- ^ "Registered Geographical Indications (GI)" (PDF). Geographical Indication Registry (India). Archived from the original (PDF) on 2014-10-26. Retrieved 2014-12-31.