Kundan

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For the 1955 Hindi film, see Kundan (film).

Kundan

Kundan, meaning pure gold,

gold foil between the stones and its mount, usually for elaborate necklaces and other jewellery.[2][3]

History

Origins of Kundan jewelleries in India are dated back to at least 3rd century BCE.[4] Kundan started off in Rajasthan Royal court and then flourished under royal patronage during the

Mughal era.[5] Over the years, the Kundan jewellery of the courts was successfully copied in silver in Rajasthan, Bihar and the Punjab and became popular with the common man.[6]

The method is believed to have originated in the royal courts of Rajasthan and Gujarat. It is one of the older forms of jewellery made and worn in India.[7][8] The city of Jaipur in Rajasthan has traditionally been the centre for Kundan in India.[8]


It remains an integral part of the traditional bridal wedding trousseau. Traditional settings, including the thappa and ras rawa, are experiencing a revival.[9] In the 2008 film, Jodhaa Akbar, the lead character portrayed by Aishwarya Rai Bachchan was extensively shown wearing Kundan jewellery, highlighting its influence among Rajasthani royalty.[7]

In 2006, "American Diamond" and Kundan jewellery contributed the largest share of both market value and volume (73 per cent) in the Indian jewellery market.[10]

Process

Kundan jewellery is created by setting carefully shaped, uncut diamonds and polished multicoloured gemstones into an exquisitely designed pure gold or faux metal base.

Meenakari then involves enameling to define the design details. Next, the Pakai process involves gold foils that hold the gems onto the framework; these are cold soldered using burnishing techniques. Finally, the gems are polished using the Chillai process.[7]

Gallery

References

  1. ^ Khan, Hussain Ahmad; Samad, Sara. "The Social Life of Great Mughal's Jewelry and Gemstones" (PDF): 255–260. {{cite journal}}: Cite journal requires |journal= (help)
  2. ISBN 978-81-322-2228-6
    .
  3. ISBN 978-981-08-7721-7
    .
  4. ^ Advance, Volume 24, p. 32, Punjab Public Relations Department
  5. ^ a b "Bedazzled!". The Indian Express. 7 May 2007. Retrieved 13 November 2009.[dead link]
  6. ^ Indian folk arts and crafts - the land and the people, by Jasleen Dhamija. National Book Trust, India. 1970. p. 73
  7. ^ a b c "Royal jewellery of Jodhaa Akbar". The Hindu. 20 June 2008. Retrieved 13 November 2009.
  8. ^
    ISBN 1-905863-18-7
    . p. 32.
  9. ^ This wedding season, gold loses sheen Deeksha Chopra, TNN, The Times of India, 15 November 2009.
  10. ^ Indian Art Jewellery Market Business Standard, Mumbai 28 November 2006.
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