North Uist
Scottish Gaelic name | Uibhist a Tuath |
---|---|
Pronunciation | [ˈɯ.ɪʃtʲ ə ˈt̪ʰuə] |
Scots name | North Uist[1] |
Meaning of name | North Uist (etymology of "Uibhist" is unclear) |
Location | |
OS grid reference | NF835697 |
Coordinates | 57°36′00″N 7°19′59″W / 57.6°N 7.333°W |
Physical geography | |
Island group | Uist and Barra |
Area | 30,305 ha (74,885 acres) |
Area rank | 10 [2] |
Highest elevation | Eaval 1,138 ft (347 m) |
Administration | |
Sovereign state | United Kingdom |
Country | Scotland |
Council area | Comhairle nan Eilean Siar |
Demographics | |
Population | 1,254[3] |
Population rank | 12 [2] |
Population density | 4.14 people/km2[3][4] |
Largest settlement | Lochmaddy |
References | [4][5][6][7] |
Official name | North Uist Machair and Islands |
Designated | 22 July 1997 |
Reference no. | 1004[8] |
North Uist (
Etymology
In
Some have taken the etymology of Uist from Old Norse, meaning "west",[4] much like Westray in Orkney.[10] Another speculated derivation of Uist from Old Norse is Ívist,[6] derived from vist meaning "an abode, dwelling, domicile".[11]
A Gaelic etymology is also possible, with I-fheirste meaning "Crossings-island" or "Fords-island", derived from I meaning "island" and fearsad meaning "estuary, sand-bank, passage across at ebb-tide".[10][12] Place-names derived from fearsad include Fersit, and Belfast.[12] Mac an Tàilleir (2003) suggests that a Gaelic derivation of Uist may be "corn island".[13] However, whilst noting that the -vist ending would have been familiar to speakers of Old Norse as meaning "dwelling", Gammeltoft (2007) says the word is "of non-Gaelic origin" and that it reveals itself as one of a number of "foreign place-names having undergone adaptation in Old Norse".[14] In contrast, Clancy (2018) has argued that Ívist itself is an Old Norse calque on an earlier Gaelic name, Ibuid or Ibdaig, which corresponds to Ptolemy’s Eboudai.[15]
Coates (2006) linked the names Uist and Ibiza, an island in the Mediterranean, arguing for an origin in Semitic *bšm ("balsam") with the island-naming prefix *’y, acknowledging the possibility of a name transfer and the name being subject to the influence of Norse ívist.[16]
History
Early history
A number of standing stones from the
Kingdom of the Isles
Whoever the occupants of "Jelly Baby" houses were, they were followed in the 9th century by
However, in the mid-12th century,
In the 13th century, despite Edgar's quitclaim, Scottish forces attempted to conquer parts of Suðreyjar, culminating in the indecisive Battle of Largs.
In 1266, the matter was settled by the Treaty of Perth, which transferred the whole of Suðreyjar to Scotland, in exchange for a very large sum of money[note 3]. The treaty expressly preserved the status of the rulers of Suðreyjar; the MacRory lands, excepting Bute, Arran, and Jura, became the Lordship of Garmoran, a quasi-independent crown dependency, rather than an intrinsic part of Scotland.
Lordship of Garmoran
At the turn of the century,
In 1346, just three years later, the sole surviving MacRory heir was
However, on Ranald's death, his sons were still children, and Godfrey took the opportunity to seize the Lordship of Garmoran. Furthermore, Godfrey had a younger brother, Murdoch, whose heirs (the Siol Murdoch) now claimed to own part of North Uist. This led to a great deal of violent conflict involving Godfrey's family (the Siol Gorrie) and those of his brothers. Surviving records do not describe this in detail, but traditional accounts report an incident where the Siol Gorrie dug away the embankment of a Loch, causing it to flood a nearby village in which the Siol Murdoch lived (and hence drown them); the accounts claim that the floodwater formed Loch Hosta.[26]
In 1427, frustrated with the level of violence generally in the highlands, together with the insurrection caused by his own cousin, King James I demanded that highland magnates should attend a meeting at Inverness. On arrival, many of the leaders were seized and imprisoned. Alexander MacGorrie, son of Godfrey, was considered to be one of the two most reprehensible, and after a quick show trial, was immediately executed.[27] As Alexander had by now inherited Godfrey's de facto position as Lord of Garmoran, and in view of Ranald's heirs being no less responsible for the violence, King James declared the Lordship forfeit.
Early lairds
Hugh of Sleat and his sons
Following the forfeiture, most of Garmoran (including North Uist) remained with the Scottish crown until 1469, when
Hugh died a few years later, and in 1505 his eldest son, John, granted North Uist (and Sleat) to
Three years later, however, Black Archibald returned. Traditional accounts relate that while he had been away, Angus Collach[note 6] (Archibald's other brother) attempted to rape a woman on North Uist; outraged by this, an armed party made up of men from the Siol Gorrie (to which the woman belonged) and Clan Ranald (to which her husband belonged) captured Angus and drowned him at sea.[28] According to these accounts, Black Archibald now took revenge, killing large numbers of Siol Gorrie.[28] Despite his behaviour, Black Archibald managed to ingratiate himself with James IV, by capturing and handing over two pirates – distant relations from Clan MacAlister;[28] in 1511, the king rewarded Black Archibald by pardoning him for his crimes, and confirming his possession of Sleat and North Uist.[28]
The Hunchback
At some point before 1520, Black Archibald was murdered by Donald Gallach's son, Donald Gruamach
In 1539, Donald Gruamach's son – Donald Gorm[note 9] – invaded the Siol Tormoid lands on Skye, in an attempt to take back Sleat and North Uist[note 10]. However, that same year, Donald Gorm was hit by an arrow while besieging Eilean Donan castle; in the process of removing it, he severed an artery, and died[note 11]. In 1542, king James V issued a charter confirming Alastair Crotach as laird of Sleat and North Uist.
Mary MacLeod
After the deaths of Alastair Crotach and his son William in quick succession (1547, and 1553, respectively), Alastair's heir was his young granddaughter, Mary MacLeod. Donald Gormson, Donald Gorm's son, took the opportunity to seize Sleat and North Uist. The
However, the forces of the Earl of Huntly had previously been defeated by Clan Ranald at the Battle of the Shirts, which made them reluctant to enter Clan Ranald territory; the Earl abandoned the pursuit, but was promptly imprisoned by Mary of Guise for doing so. Three years later, the Lords of the Congregation, the Earl of Argyll among them, emerged as an organised resistance to the Queen Regent. By 1562, the Earl of Huntly, now released, was in outright opposition to Queen Mary, and died opposing her at the Battle of Corrichel. In 1565 the tables turned when Donald Gormson took the queen's side during the Chaseabout Raid and was consequently back in royal favour.
On 4 March 1567[note 12] Donald Gormson and the Earl of Argyll drew up a contract, according to which:
- Donald Gormson would enter a bond of manrent to the Earl of Argyll
- Donald Gormson would provide military aid to Mary MacLeod's uncle, on demand from the Earl of Argyll
- Mary MacLeod would quitclaim her rights to Sleat and North Uist in return for 500 marks, to be paid by Donald Gormson
- The Earl of Argyll would persuade Queen Mary to grant him a charter for those lands, and subinfeudate them to Donald Gormson, in return for 1000 marks
Old Blue-eyes
In 1594, as an opponent of
In an attempt to solidify peaceful relations with the Siol Tormoid, Donald Gorm Mor married the daughter of the then Siol Tormoid leader,
Post-union
The Papists Act
A century later, Sir Donald MacDonald, the 4th Baronet of Sleat, was living comfortably in
The Commissioners of Forfeited Estates surveyed the land and found that it was in very poor condition; in North Uist, the local population had recently lost 745 cows, 573 horses, and 820 sheep to plague, and the sea had overflowed the land and destroyed many houses.[30] On his succession in 1723, the 7th baronet[note 16] arranged for a middleman, Kenneth MacKenzie,[note 17] to buy back Sleat and North Uist from the Commissioners[note 18] and pass them on to him.[30] In 1727, the 7th baronet was granted a royal charter formally acknowledging his position as laird of the Sleat and North Uist.[30]
According to historian
MacCodrum also composed poetry criticizing both the
Among MacCodrum's most popular anti-landlord poems mocks Aonghus MacDhòmhnaill, the post-Culloden
Kelp
During the
In 1826 the villages of Kyles Berneray, Baile Mhic Coinein, and Baile Mhic Phàil, at the north-east corner of North Uist, were abandoned by their inhabitants. Although some moved further south-east to Loch Portain, most of those affected moved to
The Highland Clearances
The 7th baronet's heir, Godfrey MacDonald[note 20] (the 4th Baron of Slate[note 21]) ran sheep on the abandoned crofts.[37] The land was poor for farming but sufficient to sustain sheep, bringing the baron a better profit. As a result, he orchestrated one of the most notable mass evictions of the Highland Clearances.[38] In 1849, an attempt to evict 603 crofters from Sollas[note 22] caused rioting. Rocks were reportedly thrown at the police officers sent from Glasgow to quell the riot.[41][42] In the convictions that followed[note 23], the jury added the following written comments:
...the jury unanimously recommend the pannels to the utmost leniency and mercy of the Court, in consideration of the cruel, though it may be legal, proceedings adopted in ejecting the whole people of Solas from their houses and crops without the prospect of shelter, or a footing in their fatherland, or even the means of expatriating them to a foreign one...[43]
In 1855, Sir Godfrey decided to sell North Uist to Sir John Powlett Orde.[36]
According to Bill Lawson, "The MacDonalds of Sleat possessed the island from 1469 until 1855, though the later proprietors took little interest in their estate except as a source of income. In 1855 the Lord MacDonald of the day sold the island to Sir John Powlett Orde, who had gained the reputation of being the worst type of landlord, utterly opposed to any attempt to improve the lot of his tenants, though it is only fair to point out that every one of the major evictions on the island was in fact carried out by the MacDonalds; they, being of a local source, are forgiven, and the blame is reserved for the incoming Sir John. He, in turn, sold parts of the island to his son Sir
The pre-clearance population of North Uist was about 5,000. Families particularly depleted during the clearances were the MacAulays, Morrisons, MacCodrums, MacCuishs, and MacDonalds.[35]
Modern times
In 1889, counties were formally created in Scotland, on shrieval boundaries, by
In 1944, the Campbell-Orde family sold North Uist to
Some of the
The population of North Uist has dwindled to around 1,300.
Geology
In common with the rest of the
Geography
North Uist is the tenth-largest Scottish island
Settlements
The main settlement on the island is Lochmaddy, a fishing port and home to a museum, an arts centre and a camera obscura. Caledonian MacBrayne ferries sail from the village to Uig on Skye, as well as from the island of Berneray (which is connected to North Uist by road causeway), to Leverburgh in Harris. Lochmaddy also has the Taigh Chearsabhagh — a museum and arts centre with a cafe, small shop and post office service. Nearby is the Uist Outdoor Centre.
The island's main villages are
According to the 2011 census North Uist had a population of 1,254.
Places of interest
North Uist has many prehistoric structures, including the
The Vikings arrived in the Hebrides in AD 800 and developed large settlements.
Newer sites of interest are the Uist sculpture trail with two art installations in Lochmaddy. Close by is the Hut of Shadows, a camera obscura.
On the Northern and western side of the island are several white sandy beaches such as Clachan Sands.
The island is known for its bird life, including corncrakes, Arctic terns, gannets, corn buntings and Manx shearwaters. The RSPB has a nature reserve at Balranald.[55]
Population
In the 18th century, the total population of the combined Uists rose dramatically, before the population crash of the Highland Clearances. In 1755, the Uists' estimated combined population was 4,118; by 1794 it rose to 6,668; and in 1821 to 11,009.[4]
pre 1820s[36] | 1841 | 1881 | 1891 | 1931 | 1961 | 1971 | 1981 | 1991 | 2001[56] | 2011[3] |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
about 5,000 | 3,870 | 3,398 | 3,250 | 2,349 | 1,622 | 1,469 | 1,454 | 1,404 | 1,271 | 1,254 |
From Haswell-Smith (2004)[4] except as stated.
Gaelic
According to the 2011 Census, there are 887 Gaelic speakers (61%) on North Uist.[57]
Literature
- The False Men by Mhairead MacLeod, author. The novel is set in North Uist during the era of the Highland Clearances when all residents of the townships around Sollas were forcibly evicted resulting in the Battle of Sollas.[58]
- Iain Mac Fhearchair (alias John MacCodrum) (1693-–1779)[59] was a Scottish Gaelic poet who spent his life as the "family bard to Sir James MacDonald of Sleat".[60] One of his most popular songs is "Smeòrach Chlann Dòmhnaill" ("The Mavis of Clan Donald"), in which the bard "praises the isle of his birth".[61] The song was recorded by fellow North Uist native Julie Fowlis on her 2014 album Gach sgeul – Every story.
- The First World War, he is often referred to as "The Voice of the Trenches".
- Pauline Prior-Pitt, a British poet, lives on North Uist.
- Sollas beach on North Just is featured in the novel The Chessmen by Peter May.[62]
Notable residents
- .
- Julie Fowlis (born 1979), a singer and instrumentalist who sings primarily in Scottish Gaelic, was born and raised on North Uist.
- Western Isles, lived on North Uist and was educated at Paible School.
- JP (1926–2000), diplomat and Governor of Bermuda, lived at Clachan Sands.
- Brothers Rory and Calum MacDonald, members of the Gaelic rock band Runrig.
- Berneray, off North Uist.
- Donald Macdonald (1825–1901), a founding minister of the Free Presbyterian Church of Scotland, was born at Langass on North Uist.
- Brothers William Matheson (1910–1995), a Scottish Gaelic scholar, academic, and ordained minister of the Church of Scotland.[63]
- Fergus Leveson-Gower, 6th Earl Granville (born 1959), laird,[46] lives at Callernish House, near Lochmaddy
In popular culture
The penultimate segment of "Lochdown", the 41st episode (3rd episode of 4th season) of the popular motoring television series The Grand Tour, was filmed on a narrow strait close to Griminish, at the northwest corner of the island, with the presenters building a floating bridge to drive their cars across to the island of Vallay (unlike suggested in the episode, the last segment was filmed in Swindon, not on Vallay).[64]
See also
Notes
- ^ The first "Jelly Baby" house to be discovered was on the Udal peninsula.
- ^ The distinctive purple colouring of their remains forms a useful marker for archaeologists
- ^ 4000 marks
- ^ in surviving records, at least
- ^ Historic records refer to this as holding the lands "by the sword"
- ^ "Collach" refers to the fact that Angus' mother was from Coll
- ^ Graumach is Gaelic for "gloomy"
- ^ Crotach is Gaelic for "hunchback"
- ^ Gorm is Gaelic for "bue"; typically, Gorm was used as a nickname for people with blue/green eyes
- Donald Dubh, whose legitimacywas thought suspect
- ^ The arrow was barbed, unbeknownst to him. According to a traditional legend, this single arrow had been the only piece of ammunition present in the entire castle, which was otherwise undefended
- old-style
- ^ Mor is Gaelic for "the elder"
- ^ Og is Gaelic for "the younger"
- ^ Despite the Baronetcy referring to Sleat, in Scotland, it was created in the peerage of Nova Scotia, rather than of Scotland, as an attempt to encourage colonial development of Nova Scotia
- ^ The 4th baronet and his sonless son (the 5th baronet) died in quick succession (1718, and 1720, respectively), leaving the baronetcy to the 4th baronet's brother, James. The 6th baronet died in 1723 and was succeeded by his son, Alexander MacDonald.
- ^ Kenneth MacKenzie was an advocate, based in Edinburgh
- ^ for £21,000
- ^ This is shown in the rental roll of 1827, which states that over fifty families had "Gone to America", meaning Cape Breton.[35]
- ^ Godfrey William Wentworth Bosville-Macdonald
- ^ Slate is in County Antrim, in Northern Ireland, not to be confused with Sleat in Scotland
- ^ A Hebridean settlement in Cape Breton County, Nova Scotia was originally called Sollas, in connection with the evictees. It is now called Woodbine[39][40]
- ^ for the crime of rioting
References
- ^ "Map of Scotland in Scots - Guide and gazetteer" (PDF).
- ^ 2011 census.
- ^ a b c National Records of Scotland (15 August 2013). "Appendix 2: Population and households on Scotland's Inhabited Islands" (PDF). Statistical Bulletin: 2011 Census: First Results on Population and Household Estimates for Scotland Release 1C (Part Two) (PDF) (Report). SG/2013/126. Retrieved 14 August 2020.
- ^ ISBN 978-1-84195-454-7.
- ^ Ordnance Survey. OS Maps Online (Map). 1:25,000. Leisure.
- ^ a b Munch; Goss, eds. (1874). "The Chronicles of Mann". Manx Society. Retrieved 31 October 2007.
- ^ Geir T. Zoëga (1910). "A Concise Dictionary of Old Icelandic". Germanic Lexicon Project. Retrieved 4 July 2007.
- ^ "North Uist Machair and Islands". Ramsar Sites Information Service. Retrieved 25 April 2018.
- ^ A Description of the Western Isles of Scotland Called Hybrides; Monro, Donald, 1549
- ^ a b Thomas, F. W. L. "Did the Northmen extirpate the Celtic Inhabitants of the Hebrides in the Ninth Century?". Proc. Soc. Antiq. Scot. 11: 475–476.
- ^ Cleasby, Richard & Vigfusson, Gudbrand (1874). "An Icelandic–English dictionary". Germanic Lexicon Project. p. 711. Retrieved 6 January 2008.
- ^ a b "An Etymological Dictionary of the Gaelic Language". Retrieved 31 October 2007.
- ^ Mac an Tàilleir (2003) p. 116
- ^ Gammeltoft, Peder "Scandinavian Naming-Systems in the Hebrides—A Way of Understanding how the Scandinavians were in Contact with Gaels and Picts?" in Ballin Smith et al (2007) p. 487
- ^ Clancy, Thomas Owen (2018). "Hebridean connections: in Ibdone insula, Ibdaig, Eboudai, Uist" (PDF). The Journal of Scottish Name Studies. 12: 27–40. Retrieved 16 June 2020.
- ^ Coates, Richard (2006). "A toponomastic contribution to the linguistic prehistory of the British Isles" (PDF): 63–65. Retrieved 14 July 2023.
{{cite journal}}
: Cite journal requires|journal=
(help) - ^ Kingship and Unity, Scotland 1000-1306, G. W. S. Barrow, Edinburgh University Press, 1981
- ^ Galloglas: Hebridean and West Highland Mercenary Warrior Kindreds in Medieval Ireland, John Marsden, 2003
- ^ Lismore: The Great Garden, Robert Hay, 2009, Birlinn Ltd
- ^ Proceedings of the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland, 90 (1956–1957), A.A.M. Duncan, A.L Brown, pages 204-205
- ^ The Kingdom of the Isles: Scotland's Western Seaboard, R. A. McDonald, 1997, Tuckwell Press
- ^ Bill Lawson (2004), North Uist in History and Legend, Birlinn. Pages 79-81.
- ^ Dickinson W.C., The Sheriff Court Book of Fife, Scottish History Society, Third Series, Vol. XII (Edinburgh 1928), pp. 357-360
- ^ The Records of the Parliaments of Scotland to 1707, K.M. Brown et al eds (St Andrews, 2007–2017), 15 July 1476
- ^ Regesta Regum Scottorum VI ed. Bruce Webster (Edinburgh 1982) no. 73.
- ^ Townsend, Mike. (2015). Walking on Uist and Barra. pp. 76 - 77.
- ^ Gregory, Donald (1836), History of the Western Highlands and Isles of Scotland, from A.D. 1493 to A.D. 1625, with a brief introductory sketch, from A.D. 80 to A.D. 1493, Edinburgh, W. Tait, retrieved 11 May 2012, p. 65
- ^ a b c d e Angus & Archibald Macdonald. The Clan Donald volume 3: Inverness, The Northern Counties Publishing Company Ltd, 1900.
- ^ thumb
- ^ a b c d e f Clan Donald, Donald J MacDonald, MacDonald Publishers (of Loanhead, Midlothian), 1978, p.426
- ^ Campbell (1971), Highland Songs of the Forty-Five, pages 246, 248-253.
- ^ "Highland Clearances – 3". 25 November 2013. Archived from the original on 29 December 2016. Retrieved 28 December 2016.
- ^ Mackenzie, John (1872). Sar-Obair nam Bard Gaelach: or the Beauties of Gaelic Poetry. p. 144.
- ^ Edited by Michael Newton (2015), Seanchaidh na Coille: Memory-Keeper of the Forest, Cape Breton University Press. Pages 44-52.
- ^ a b c d e f g Lawson, Bill. "From The Outer Hebrides to Cape Breton - Part II". The Global Gazette. 10 September 1999. Retrieved on 14 October 2007
- ^ a b c d Hebridean Princess Scotland Archived 2011-09-30 at the Wayback Machine Retrieved on 17 October 2007
- ^ A History of the Highland Clearances: Agrarian Transformation and the Evictions 1746–1886, Eric Richards, 1982, Taylor & Francis, p. 420
- ^ The Scottish Pioneers of Upper Canada, 1784–1855, Lucille Campey, 2005, National Heritage Books (Toronto), p. 122
- ^ Turas Rannsachaidh dha 'n Albainn: Research Trip to Gaelic Scotland Archived 2008-12-07 at the Wayback Machine Retrieved on 16 October 2007
- ^ Places in Cape Breton County, Nova Scotia Retrieved on 16 October 2007
- ^ Island Fling, September, 2002. Vancouver Island Scottish Country Dance Society. Retrieved on 17 October 2007
- Boston GlobeRetrieved on 17 October 2007
- ^ Debating the Highland Clearances, Eric Richards, 2007, Edinburgh University Press.p. 185–186.
- ^ Bill Lawson (2011), North Uist in History and Legend, Birlinn. Pages 207-208.
- ^ a b Lawson (2011), page 208.
- ^ a b David Profumo, In Focus: Fergus Granville, the driftwood sculptor inspired by North Uist, Country Life, 5 February 2021, accessed 25 January 2023
- ^ "Uist and Barra (South)". BGS large map images. British Geological Survey. Retrieved 3 February 2020.
- ^ "Onshore Geoindex". British Geological Survey. British Geological Survey. Retrieved 3 February 2020.
- ^ List of islands of Scotland
- ^ List of European islands by area
- ^ Murray and Pullar (1908) "Lochs of North Uist"[dead link] Pages 188–89, Volume II, Part II. National Library of Scotland. Retrieved 20 December 2009.
- ^ "National Scenic Areas" Archived 11 March 2017 at the Wayback Machine. SNH. Retrieved 30 March 2011.
- ISBN 978-0-7524-1400-3.
- ^ Ross, John (11 July 2007). "Race to study Iron Age roundhouses before they are lost to sea storms". The Scotsman. Retrieved 4 December 2007.
- Scottish Natural Heritage. Archived from the originalon 11 December 2007. Retrieved 6 January 2008.
- ^ "Number of residents and households in all inhabited islands" (PDF). General Register Office for Scotland. Archived from the original (PDF) on 27 September 2007. Retrieved 17 October 2007.
- ^ Census 2011 stats BBC News. Retrieved 20 April 2014.
- ^ Munro, Alistair; (2 August 2017). "Traumatic story of the Hebridean Clearances retold". The Scotsman. Retrieved 28 May 2018.
{{cite web}}
: CS1 maint: numeric names: authors list (link) - ^ Lawson (2011), North Uist in History and Legend, page 32.
- ^ Campbell (1971), Highland Songs of the Forty-Five, page 246.
- ^ Lawson (2011), pages 29-30.
- ^ "Peter May Trilogy - Sollas Beach". Visit Outer Hebrides. Retrieved 19 December 2014.
- ^ "William Matheson". The Herald. 2 December 1995. Retrieved 2 December 2017.
- ^ The Grand Tour Lochdown Filming Locations Global Film Locations. Retrieved 2 October 2022.
Bibliography
- Ballin Smith, Beverley; Taylor, Simon; and Williams, Gareth (2007) West over Sea: Studies in Scandinavian Sea-Borne Expansion and Settlement Before 1300. Leiden. Brill. ISBN 978-90-04-15893-1
- Mac an Tàilleir, Iain (2003) Ainmean-àite/Placenames. (pdf) Pàrlamaid na h-Alba. Retrieved 26 August 2012.
External links
- North Uist travel guide from Wikivoyage
- Balranald Nature Reserve
- Taigh Chearsabhagh
- Explore North Uist
- Am Paipear Community Newspaper
- Chisholm, Hugh, ed. (1911). . Encyclopædia Britannica (11th ed.). Cambridge University Press.