Trisul
Trishul | |
---|---|
Ultra | |
Coordinates | 30°18′46″N 79°46′38″E / 30.31278°N 79.77722°E[1] |
Geography | |
Location | Kumaun Himalaya |
Climbing | |
First ascent | 12 June 1907 by Tom Longstaff, A. Brocherel, H. Brocherel, Karbir[4] |
Easiest route | Northeast flank/north ridge: snow/glacier climb |
Trisul is a group of three
Description of the massif and neighbouring peaks
The three peaks are named Trisul I, Trisul II, and Trisul III. The
Nanda Ghunti lies a few Kilometres to the northwest, while Mrigthuni is just to the southeast.
Mountain | Height (m) | Height (ft) | Coordinates | Prominence (m) | First ascent |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Trisul I | 7,120 | 23,359 | 30°18′46″N 79°46′38″E / 30.31278°N 79.77722°E | 1616 | 1907 |
Trisul II | 6,690[5] | 21,949 | 30°17′24″N 79°46′12″E / 30.29000°N 79.77000°E[6] | <200[7] | 1960 |
Trisul III | 6,007 | 19,708 | 30°15′00″N 79°46′12″E / 30.25000°N 79.77000°E | <200[7] | 1960 |
Climbing history
Trisul I
Routes on the west face and south ridge of Trisul I have also been climbed. The south side was first ascended in 1976 by a Yugoslavian expedition, with Slovenian climbers Andrej Graseli and Štefan Marenče reaching the peak on 15 May, followed by Vanja Matijevec the following day.[10]
Trisul II and III
Trisul II and Trisul III were first climbed in 1960 by the Yugoslav team JAHO I . They climbed from the Bidalgwar glacier, achieving the summit of Trisul II via the southern ridge and Trisul III via the north ridge.[citation needed]
Another Yugoslav expedition made the first traverse of the three peaks in 1987, and two members paraglided from the summit.[citation needed]
Access
The Trisul massif can be accessed via the following route:
References
- ^ a b H. Adams Carter, "Classification of the Himalaya", American Alpine Journal, 1985, p. 137.
- ^ Some sources give 7,172 m (23,530 ft).
- ^ "High Asia I: The Karakoram, Pakistan Himalaya and India Himalaya (north of Nepal)". Peaklist.org. Retrieved 28 May 2014.
- ISBN 0-89886-238-8.
- ^ This elevation is from the Himalayan Index. Some sources give 6,660 m (21,850 ft).
- ^ From the Himalayan Index.
- ^ a b Garhwal-Himalaya-Ost (1:150,000 scale topographic map), Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research, 1992; based on maps by the Survey of India.
- ISBN 978-0-906371-91-6
- ^
John B. West (May 2003). "George I. Finch and his pioneering use of oxygen for climbing at extreme altitudes". Journal of Applied Physiology. 94 (5): 1702–1713. PMID 12679344. Quote: "The first use of supplementary oxygen in the Himalayas was apparently in 1907 when A. L. Mumm, Tom Longstaff, and Charles Bruce went to the Garhwal and made the first ascent of Trisul (7,127 m), which remained the highest summit to be climbed for 21 years."
- ISBN 86-7330-117-3
Other sources
- This My Voyage by T. G. Longstaff.
- Across Peaks and Passes of Kumaun Himalayas by Harish Kapadia.