Blackwork, sometimes historically termed Spanish blackwork, is a form of
free-stitch embroidery
, where the yarns of a fabric are not counted while sewing.
Traditionally, blackwork is worked in silk thread on white or off-white linen or cotton fabric. Sometimes metallic threads or coloured threads are used for accents.
Technique
The stitches used for counted thread blackwork are double running or holbein stitch, backstitch, and sometimes stem stitch. Historically, blackwork was worked on plain-weave fabric. Modern embroiderers often use an even-weave fabric made especially for counted thread work.
Historically, there were three common styles of blackwork. In the earliest forms of blackwork, counted stitches were worked to make a geometric or small floral pattern. Most modern blackwork is produced in this style, especially commercially produced patterns marketed for embroidery hobbyists.
Later blackwork featured large designs of flowers, fruit, and other patterns connected by curvilinear stems. These were frequently not counted thread work, and were outlined with stem stitch, with the outlined patterns filled in with geometric counted designs.
In the third style of blackwork, the outlined patterns were "shaded" with random stitches called seed stitches. This style of blackwork imitates etchings or woodcuts.
History
Early Spanish blackwork: Borgoña'sLady with Hare wears a chemise embroidered at the neckline and on the sleeves, c. 1505, Toledo.
Historically, blackwork was used on
Canterbury Tales
describes the clothing of the miller's wife, Alison: "Of white, too, was the dainty smock she wore, embroidered at the collar all about with coal-black silk, alike within and out."
Blackwork in silk thread on linen was the most common domestic embroidery technique for clothing (shirts, smocks, sleeves,
Elizabeth I, but lost popularity as a technique by the 17th century.[b]
Historic blackwork embroidery is rare to find well-preserved, as the iron-based dye used to create the thread's black colour was corrosive, and there are currently no conservation techniques that can stop the decay.[3][4] Black embroidery silk from outside England, such as Spain, contained less iron in the black dye and so blackwork worked using non-English silk tends to survive in better condition.[5]
16th-century blackwork
Geometric scarletwork, Venice, 1520s.
Blackwork embroidery on both an outer and inner collar. Portrait of Simon George by Hans Holbein the Younger, 1535.
Blackwork embroidery in Holbein stitch. Detail of portrait of Jane Seymour by Holbein, 1537.
Blackwork sleeves with large free-stitched flowers filled with geometric patterns, under sheer linen oversleeves, and a counted blackwork forepart under her skirt. Portrait of Mary Cornwallis by George Gower, c. 1580.
Elizabeth I wearing free-stitched blackwork sleeves, stomacher, and collar (beneath a sheer linen ruff), c. 1590[6]
English blackwork cushion cover, late 16th century. Linen embroidered with silk and metallic thread, in a mix of counted and free-stitched stitches, including buttonhole, chain, double running, overcast, plaited braid, and square open work stitches. Art Institute of Chicago textile collection.
Modern blackwork
Counted-thread geometric patterns in modern blackwork
Blackwork remains popular as an embroidery technique. Common subjects among hobbyists include chessboards, maps, Tudor houses, roses and cats. Much of the success of a blackwork design using free embroidery depends on how tone values are translated into stitches.
Today, the term "blackwork" is used to refer to the technique, rather than the precise colour used in the embroidery.
^A.J.B. Wace "debunked" the Spanish origin in the 1930s,[citation needed] but if the black trim on these chemises from the 1470s is embroidery, this would support an early Spanish origin.
1550–1600 in fashion
References
^Leslie, Catherine Amoroso. "Blackwork" in Encyclopedia of Needlework Westport Connecticut: Greenwood Publishing Group, 2007; p. 19
Geometric scarletwork, Venice, 1520s.
Blackwork embroidery on both an outer and inner collar. Portrait of Simon George by Hans Holbein the Younger, 1535.
Blackwork embroidery in Holbein stitch. Detail of portrait of Jane Seymour by Holbein, 1537.
Bess of Hardwick in geometric scarletwork, 1550s.
Blackwork sleeves with large free-stitched flowers filled with geometric patterns, under sheer linen oversleeves, and a counted blackwork forepart under her skirt. Portrait of Mary Cornwallis by George Gower, c. 1580.![Elizabeth I wearing free-stitched blackwork sleeves, stomacher, and collar (beneath a sheer linen ruff), c. 1590[6]](//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/8/82/Elizabeth_I_Jesus_College_Oxford_1590.jpg/99px-Elizabeth_I_Jesus_College_Oxford_1590.jpg)
Elizabeth I wearing free-stitched blackwork sleeves, stomacher, and collar (beneath a sheer linen ruff), c. 1590[6]
English blackwork cushion cover, late 16th century. Linen embroidered with silk and metallic thread, in a mix of counted and free-stitched stitches, including buttonhole, chain, double running, overcast, plaited braid, and square open work stitches. Art Institute of Chicago textile collection.
![Elizabeth I wearing free-stitched blackwork sleeves, stomacher, and collar (beneath a sheer linen ruff), c. 1590[6]](/File:Elizabeth_I_Jesus_College_Oxford_1590.jpg)
Framed Celtic design in blackwork
Map of Derbyshire
